House historIES: The Balenciaga timeline

The eponymous brand of Cristobal Balenciaga – a man frequently referred to as the ‘King of Couture’ – has, like most fashion brands, had its ups and downs. One thing it has always stood for, however, is innovation. From the envelope pushing silhouettes and cuts devised by its founder to its modern guise under fashion world disruptor Demna Gvasalia, read on for a potted history of the house of Balenciaga.

1917

Cristobal Balenciaga opens his first haute couture atelier in San Sebastien, Spain. This is followed by boutiques in Madrid and Barcelona.

1937

The Spanish Civil War breaks out and Balenciaga relocates to the epicentre of high fashion, Paris, with a boutique on 10 Avenue George V. His first collection is shown to press and buyers the same year, receiving critical acclaim.

1947

The first Balenciaga perfume, Le Dix, is launched.

1951

Balenciaga begins experimenting and innovating silhouettes with the Vareuse and Cocoon lines. Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin and Emanuel Ungaro can all be found working in his atelier while high profile clients include Jackie Kennedy, Pauline de Rothschild, Gloria Guinness and Mona von Bismarck.

1952

Balenciaga showcases two signatures of the house – boxy suits and the Parachute dress – for the first time.

1957

Balenciaga makes waves with the introduction of the ‘sack’ dress – a silhouette at complete odds with Dior’s New Look, which was very much still in fashion. The baby doll dress, chemise and cocoon coat also debut.

1958

Cristobal Balenciaga is awarded the French Legion d’Honore.

Cristobal Balenciaga in a campaign for the Le Dix fragrance

​1961

Balenciaga creates costumes for Jean Cocteau’s play Orphee.

1968

After showing his final collection, Cristobal Balenciaga closes his couture house and retires to Spain.

A Balenciaga look on the cover of Jardins des Modes in 1951

1972

Cristobal Balenciaga dies on 24 March in Javea, Spain.

​His funeral is attended by the great and the good of the world’s high society and fashion industry elite.

1986

The Balenciaga house is relaunched after being acquired by the Bogart Group.

​Michel Goma is appointed to design women’s ready-to-wear. His clothes are commercially successful but deviate from the architectural roots and innovation of the house.

1991

Goma is replaced by Josephus Thimister, who works to elevate the house back to its former high fashion status.

1997

Thimister is fired after the audience walks out during his AW97 show due to a punishingly loud soundtrack.

​The relatively unknown Nicolas Ghesquière is appointed creative director, putting himself and the house back on the map with his talent for silhouettes and use of elegantly chaotic floral prints.

2001

Ghesquière creates the house’s first It bag: the Lariat. Initially gifted just to the models walking that season’s show, its popularity among stars like Kate Moss made it an instant must-have.

​Balenciaga is sold to the Gucci Group, part of PPR (later Kering), for an undisclosed sum.

2002

The house introduces men’s ready-to-wear and accessories for the first time.

2006

An exhibition is held in Balenciaga’s honour at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

2011

The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum opens in the designer’s birthplace, Getaria, Spain.

2012

Alexander Wang becomes creative director, imbuing the brand with his sporty all-American look while retaining references to Balenciaga’s iconic designs. Celebrity clients include Lady Gaga, Zoe Kravitz and Julianne Moore.

Balenciaga SS22 Couture

2015

Demna Gvasalia replaces Wang bringing with him the love for street style that made his own brand, Vetements, so successful. Pop culture references and sportswear detailing are blended with classic tailoring and elegant cuts that are instantly embraced by fashion fans and celebrities alike. Key pieces include the Triple S trainer and sock boots.

2017

The first men’s runway presentation is staged for the SS17 collection. A major Balenciaga retrospective is staged at the V&A.

2020

In January Balenciaga announces it is to return to Haute Couture week for the first time in over 50 years (since Cristobal Balenciaga shuttered the brand). However, when the coronavirus pandemic caused couture week to go to a digital-only format, the house postpones its plans until 2021.

2021

On 7 July Balenciaga stages its first haute couture show in 53 years at 10 Avenue George V. In homage to Cristobal Balenciaga, who always showed in silence to allow the audience to focus on the cut of his clothing, so Gvasalia chooses to do the same. The show melds Balenciaga’s legendary way with tailoring with Gvasalia’s modern approach to fashion and street-wise aesthetic to rave reviews.

Later that year Balenciaga collaborates with online video game Fortnite and create a collaborative episode of The Simpsons – clear evidence of Gvasalia’s appreciation for what has gone before, as well as his understanding of the need to innovate and his wish to position Balenciaga at the forefront of the increasing media-isation of fashion brands.

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