House histories: The Saint Laurent timeline

Discover the history of the Parisian fashion house that changed the fashion system like no other...

Famed for its Le Smoking tuxedo and credited by some for the invention of ready-to-wear, the impact of Yves Saint Laurent and his namesake brand on the fashion industry can’t be overstated. But from those mid-century beginnings, the house has transformed vastly into the instantly recognisable fashion behemoth it is today, raising the profiles of many lesser-known designers with it. Here’s everything you need to know…

​1961

Yves Saint Laurent founds his namesake couture house in Paris, with business partner Pierre Bergé, after learning his trade under Christian Dior. Mixing traditional ballgowns with the wide-legged trousers, peacoats and more androgynous styles growing in popularity among fashion forward circles, it finds loyal customers immediately.

​1962

The house launches its first fragrance: Y.

1966

Spotting a gap in the market for more affordable, yet still stylish, clothing, Yves Saint Laurent opens ready-to-wear line Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. It offers a full spectrum wardrobe for modern women not willing to wait weeks for their new garments.

The same year Le Smoking, a sharply tailored tuxedo for women, makes its debut in the haute couture collection. Unlike anything that has been proposed for women before, its initial reviews were mixed and buyers were wary about stocking it. However, celebrity fans, including Bianca Jagger, Catherine Deneuve and Nan Kempner, soon sealed its place in fashion history.

1971

The ‘Liberacion’ collection, inspired by the 1940s, sparks criticism and scandal over claims it glamourises the Nazi occupation of France during World War II.

1974

The Yves Saint Laurent couture house is relocated to 5 Avenue Marceau.

Yves Saint Laurent Modrian-inspired designs, 1966

1978

The YSL cosmetics line is launched.

1983

Diana Vreeland curates an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent’s designs. It is the first museum exhibition devoted to a living designer.

1985

Having long drawn inspiration from the culture and clothing of Africa, Yves Saint Laurent dedicates his 1985 African Queen collection to his muse Iman. An early proponent of diverse catwalks, he often casts models such as Katoucha Niane and Naomi Campbell.

1989

The Yves Saint Laurent brand goes public on the Paris Bourse and is valued at $500 million.

​1993

The house is sold to Sanofi, a subsidiary of Elf Aquitaine, for $650 million amid declining profits.

1998

Alber Elbaz is employed to oversee ready-to-wear collections. Yves Saint Laurent stages a major show comprising 300 models at the Grand Stade de France during the World Cup.

1999

Alber Elbaz leaves Yves Saint Laurent to join Lanvin. He is replaced by Tom Ford, who joins from Gucci, but the relationship between Yves Saint Laurent and Ford is strained. Saint Laurent disapproves of Ford’s pared back vision - despite a massive increase in sales and critical acclaim. The same year the company is sold to the Gucci Group (now Kering) for $1 billion.

2000

The Yves Saint Laurent Archive Institute is founded in Paris.

2002

Yves Saint Laurent retires amid growing health problems. His final show is openly nostalgic, providing a retrospective of his 40 year career. The couture arm of the business is closed soon after.

2004

Ford leaves Yves Saint Laurent to start his own label and is replaced by former Miu Miu designer Stefano Pilati. He brings a more feminine vision to the brand which some feel is off kilter with the tailoring and structure the house is known for.

2008

Yves Saint Laurent passes away.

An Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche smoking outfit. Credit: Museum at FIT

2012

Pilati is replace by Hedi Slimane, joining from Dior Homme, who immediately sets about transforming every aspect of the brand. He divides opinions by shortening the name to Saint Laurent and casting super-slim models in catwalk shows full of androgynous, rock-inspired looks and short metallic party dresses. As a result, Slimane receives heavy criticism in the media and responds by withdrawing to LA and refusing almost all interview requests.

2013

Francesca Belletini is appointed CEO and president.

2014

Saint Laurent cancels an order form Parisian boutique Colette, which has been stocking its clothing since 1998, over accusations from Saint Laurent that Colette was carrying counterfeit goods. The dispute centred over a range of T-shirts with the slogan ‘Ain’t Laurent without Yves’.

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum. Credit: Celette

2015

Saint Laurent rejoins the couture schedule on the back of numerous hugely profitable years for the brand.

2016

To the surprise of many, Slimane’s contract is not renewed and his departure is announced in April. A public court battle ensues with Slimane alleging numerous grievances including underpayment for his last year of service, an issue around waiving his non-compete clause and ownership of Slimane's images in Saint Laurent's online archive. Slimane eventually emerged victorious with a $11.5 million settlement in 2018. Slimane is replaced by Versus Versace designer Anthony Vaccarello.

2017

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum opens at 5 Avenue Marceau, supported by La Fondation Pierre Bergé. The museum is dedicated to preserving the sketches, textiles, accessories and garments that Saint Laurent created throughout his life.

2019

Saint Laurent achieves more than €2 billion in sales for the first time.

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