Met Gala 2021: An A-Z of American fashion designers of note

As the Met Gala announces its next theme, In America, meet the designers we hope to see represented on the red carpet

Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, 2021 will be the first year that the annual fashion extravaganza that is the Met Gala will not be held on the first Monday in May. This year it will take place on 18 September and, instead of recycling the theme from 2020’s cancelled event (About Time: Fashion and Duration), a new theme has recently been announced: In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.

This year's theme is part one of two centring around American fashion, with In America: An Anthology of Fashion to be the theme of both the Met Gala and the Costume Institute exhibition it raises funds for in 2022. Undeniably one of the broadest briefs for designers creating red carpet gowns for the event, it represents a challenge both in how to honour American fashion without falling into pastiche and how to then reinterpret a very similar brief in 2022 without repeating themselves or other designers. Will it be all star-spangled banners and cowboy references or will designers stick to finding inspiration in New York's high fashion history?

What we do know, however, is that there are some designers it would be criminal not to see represented at the 2021 Met Gala. Here’s our guide to the American fashion designers of note to look out for on the red carpet.

​Betsey Johnson

Best known for her eye-popping prints, and with a modern fashion line that skews more high street than high end, Betsey Johnson might not be an obvious choice for the Met Gala – but this outsized personality has had an equally outsized influence on American fashion.

Exploding onto the New York fashion scene in the late 1960s, she quickly became an integral member of both the youthquake movement and Andy Warhol’s underground scene, becoming creative director of Alley Cat, a label hugely popular with rock’n’roll musicians.

Describing her style as ‘pretty and punk’, Johnson’s combination of almost comically feminine elements – voluminous tulle skirts, pink in every shade – with animal prints and skin tight silhouettes isn’t too far a cry from her contemporary across the pond: Vivienne Westwood. The influence of this aesthetic can still be seen on the catwalks and streets today. The current trend for nap dresses and combat boots is a prime example – and we are almost certain to see this look tapped into on the red carpet. But the cartwheel into a split that became Johnson’s signature post-show move? For that there can be no imitators.

The look: Bold, bright and not afraid to stand out from the crowd.

Image courtesy The Heart Truth

Carmen Kass backstage at the Bill Blass SS04 show. Image courtesy Narciso003.

bill blass

As fashion designers go, no-one embodies the American Dream quite like Bill Blass. Born to a travelling salesman in Fort Wayne, Indiana in 1922, Blass spent his teenage years sewing evening gowns to sell to a New York manufacturer.

By 1970, after a stint serving in the army during World War II, Blass was running an eponymous fashion house and became the first American couturier to expand into menswear.

His classic, elegant and often colourful designs inspired by Hollywood garnered Blass a huge fan base, including notable clients such as Brooke Astor, Nancy Kissinger and Gloria Vanderbilt, and, in turn, demand for his product turned into an early proponent of the licensing structure many modern fashion houses run on today.

At its height his house had 97 licensing agreements, including luggage, perfume, chocolate and socks and, after a hiatus following Blass' death, the label was relaunched in 2015 and is still going strong today. Blass is undoubtedly a treasure trove of inspiration for any Met Gala look.

The look: Hollywood glamour with a modern twist

calvin klein

Few fashion designers can claim to have quite the same household name status as Calvin Klein. Who else, for example, can say the lead in one of the 20th Century’s most popular films (Back to the Future) was named for them? Or that simply uttering the phrase ‘My Calvins’ brings to mind, not only one of the house’s most famous products, but also one of its most iconic ad campaigns?

Calvin Klein’s underwear is, of course, just a small (if lucrative) part of a fashion empire spanning more than 50 years. As well as a phenomenally successful jeans line, Klein has also been responsible for some truly memorable runway shows, with his clean, modern silhouettes seeing him hailed as the new Yves Saint Laurent.

In 1974 he became the first designer to receive awards for outstanding design in both mens and womens wear from the CFDA. There are few designers with marketing savvy like Calvin Klein and it would, frankly, be a travesty not to see him represented at the Met Gala.

The look: Minimalist, sporty shapes, denim and that famous CK logo.

Carolina Herrera AW14. Image courtesy Christopher Macsurak.

​Carolina Herrera

Famed for her elegant, sumptuous black tie designs, Carolina Herrera has long been a favourite on the red carpet, so it would be extremely surprising not to see a star or two call on her for a draw-dropping floor length gown at this year's Met Gala.

Having founded her brand in 1981, after working as a publicist for Emilio Pucci for 15 years, Herrera’s super-flattering eveningwear quickly garnered favour with a roster of First Ladies, including Jackie Kennedy, Laura Bush and Michelle Obama.

Influenced by the Balenciaga shows her grandmother took her to as a child, the Spanish designer’s easy blend of sophisticated tailoring and feminine shapes is clear to see in Herrera’s work, which celebrates the female form with nipped waists and A-line skirts.

Now helmed by Wes Gordon, who has remained close to house codes since he took over in 2018, this is the perfect brand for a starlet looking to make a splash on the red carpet without straying too far from pretty.

The look: Mid-century inspired formalwear that never goes out of style.

​Diane von Fürstenberg

DVF, having been born in Belgium, is not technically an American designer but, having built her brand in New York and helmed the CFDA from 2006 to 2019, few designers are as intertwined with the modern American fashion industry as Diane Von Fürstenberg.

One of the most interesting questions about this year’s Met Gala, then, will be to see if any designer is brave enough to offer up their own take on Diane Von Fürstenberg’s wrap dress or, indeed, if the designer herself will give a Met Gala worthy rendition.

An icon of modern American fashion, the wrap dress sold in the millions throughout the 1970s but, traditionally rendered in jersey and favoured for its easy-to-wear, casual appeal, doesn’t make an obvious choice for an event like the Met Gala.

​Regardless, it would be surprising if at least a passing reference isn’t made to one of the true fashion innovations of the last few decades.

The look: Easy, relaxed elegance for women who prize style and practicality.

Liu Wen walks in the DVF SS14 show. Image courtesy Christopher Macsurak.

halston

With a new Ryan Murphy biopic about to hit Netflix, the work of infamous New York designer Halston seems an obvious choice to land you on the best dressed list at this year’s Met Gala. It helps, of course, that from designing Jackie Kennedy’s famous inauguration pillbox hat to hanging out at Studio 54 with Liza Minelli and Andy Warhol, there is quite the cache of inspiration to draw on in the Halston archive.

Debuting his first clothing line in 1969, Halston defied the all-out opulence of the period with his minimalist, fuss-free designs crafted from luxurious cashmeres, silks, chiffons and suedes. Halston was also a huge fan of bias cutting, introducing a new way to achieve a flattering, polished finish that didn’t rely on silhouette – a technique that has now become common practice among high end designers.

The look: Unadorned elegance with a 1970s retro appeal.

oleg cassini

As you may have guessed from his name, Cassini did not hail from America but, having been born into an aristocratic Russian family with Italian heritage, came to the United States in 1936 after starting a career as a fashion designer in Rome.

Quickly finding work at Paramount Pictures, Cassini created looks for some of the biggest films and stars of the time, including Veronica Lake, Rita Hayworth and Faye Dunaway, before his career was put on hold when he enlisted in the army during World War II.

Post-war, Cassini moved to New York and opened his own boutique where he met a soon-to-be-married Jacqueline Bouvier. In 1961 he was appointed her exclusive couturier, creating what is now instantly recognisable as the ‘Jackie Kennedy’ look.

Cassini would go on to dress everyone from Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly to Taylor Swift, and his label is now best known as its modern iteration as a bridal house. It is his work for Jackie Kennedy, however, that changed American fashion forever.

The look: Simple superbly tailored silhouettes in bright colours and sumptuous fabrics.

oscar de la renta

Born in Dominica and trained under Cristobal Balenciaga, like Diane von Fürstenberg, Oscar de la Renta is a designer whose long-standing connection with the American fashion industry, including two stints as president of the CFDA, mean he should not be overlooked when it come to a survey of US fashion history.

A classic couturier in every sense of the word (he designed haute couture collections for Balmain for nearly 10 years before diversifying in to bridalwear), de la Renta brought that traditional appreciation for cut, craft and unparalleled beauty into his ready-to-wear. Similar in aesthetic to Carolina Herrera, his gowns have long been prized among the world’s elite party set for their quality construction and timelessly fabulous design. Drawing on his work is a no brainer for the Met Gala.

The look: Feminine, classy and unerringly elegant.

Image courtesy Masaki-H

michael kors

A fashion powerhouse propelled to wealth and fame by the extreme success of his mid-priced handbags and accessories, Michael Kors impact on fashion for the masses can’t be understated.

What is often overlooked, however, is his higher priced clothing line which is often among the most wearable and relatable on the New York Fashion Week runways.

Having begun his career at Celine, when it came to launching his own brand Kors took the minimalism the French brand is known for and added his own all-American twist. The look is sporty and clean (think little black dresses with racerback-inspired necklines), with even his most opulent gowns relying on eye-catching fabrics rather than over-the-top adornment or voluminous silhouettes.

​Accordingly, his clothes are incredibly easy to wear and everyone from Nicole Kidman and Jennifer Lopez to Lupita N’yongo and Taylor Swift have been spotted in his designs over the years. The perfect choice for an ingenue looking for something youthful and fresh on the red carpet.

The look: Sporty and understated with undeniable impact.

ralph lauren

Ralph Lauren has been taking a table at the Met Gala for years so don’t be surprised to see bevy of stars turn up in his designs in September. And rightly so. Ralph Lauren is, after all, one of America’s most famous and successful modern fashion designers and, as a self-made man who built an empire from a few ties, an inspiration to many an aspiring designer.

On the face of it, however, Lauren’s WASP-y, upstate New York signature style doesn’t exactly translate well into dramatic red carpet looks worthy of the Met Gala. However, one need only look at the label’s past outings at the event to know that, when the occasion calls for it, Ralph Lauren can pull out all the stops.

​Take Priyanka Chopra in a classic trench-turned-cathedral-length-gown in 2017, Lily Aldridge in a sunshine yellow silk shirtdress in 2018 or Taylor Hill in a blush pink satin strapless number with matching feathered jacket in 2019. Ralph Lauren also does a fantastic line in tuxedos and is a great choice for men who aren’t comfortable in the more flamboyant tailoring of a Gucci, Versace or Prada.

The look: All-American, girl-next-door with a fashion forward spin.

Ralph Lauren SS15. Image courtesy Christopher Macsurak.

tom ford

As current chair of the CFDA, Tom Ford is practically guaranteed to have a strong showing at this year’s Met Gala – and it wouldn't be unwarranted. Having worked at Gucci and Saint Laurent, Ford brought a European sensibility and style to his eponymous brand, which he founded in 2006, and blended it with an overt sexiness that soon found him fans including Beyonce, Julianne Moore and Gwyneth Paltrow. Also a dab hand at tailoring, his suits are favourites of Daniel Craig (who wore them in no fewer than four Bond films), Hugh Jackman and Tom Hanks.

So what might a Tom Ford Met Gala gown look like? Well, if his previous outings are anything to go by, expect plunging necklines (Gemma Chan in floor length silver sequins in 2019), cutaway detailing (Chanel Iman in white feathers in 2012) and plenty of sparkle (Amal Clooney in a stained glass window inspired gown in 2018). Whatever he concocts for 2021, we guarantee it will be memorable.

The look: Sexy, chic and not a tiny bit subtle.

Tommy Hilfiger SS09. Image courtesy Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com.

tommy hilfiger

Designers don’t come much more all-American than Tommy Hilfiger. The designer’s logo is literally modelled on the stars and stripes. However, now more an upscale high street brand whose clothes retail at mid-market prices, will he get a look in at the Met Gala?

Despite its mass market business model, the brand has retained a strong fashion week presence and if the strength of its recent collaborations, which have included the likes of Gigi Hadid and Zendaya, are anything to go by, the answer is a resounding yes.

Originally launched as a menswear brand in 1985, whose sporty take on traditional preppy styles eventually evolved into looser, urban looks that foreshadowed today’s streetwear movement, his womenswear was an energetic take on Americana from the moment it made its debut in 1996.

If anyone is going to turn the star-spangled banner into a dress it's Hilfiger (in fact, he dressed his wife in that very thing at the 2019 event) while the same year also saw him put Zendaya in light-up Cinderella cosplay and Kris Jenner in a (literally) star-studded jumpsuit finished with tulle angel wings. When it comes to Tommy Hilfiger at the Met Gala, all bets are off.

The look: Red, white and blue and proud of it.

vera wang

What might a Met Gala bride look like? If Vera Wang gets her way, this might just be the year we find out. A native New Yorker who cut her teeth at Vogue and Ralph Lauren, there is no name quite so synonymous with fantasy bridalwear as Vera Wang and, accordingly, her celebrity wedding roster include the likes of Mariah Carey, Kim Kardashian and Victoria Beckham.

Volume, dramatic silhouettes and unexpected details are signatures of both Wang’s wedding gowns and equally popular eveningwear – a look that is often imitated but rarely executed quite so successfully.

Wang’s background perhaps makes her uniquely suited to create the kind of look that will draw applause at the Met Gala and her previous outings, dressing Ariana Grande in 2019, Joan Smalls in 2014 and Kerry Washington in 2013 to name a few, prove she’s more than up to the task.

The look: The wedding dress of your dreams.

Vera Wang SS14. Image courtesy Christopher Macsurak.

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