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6/8/2020

House history: The Louis Vuitton timeline

From its iconic monogrammed It bags to its opinion-splitting ready-to-wear collections, for decades Louis Vuitton has reigned supreme as one of the world’s most sought after fashion brands. Inspiring legions of devoted fans, commanding investment-level prices at auction and gaining a veritable horde of celebrity ambassadors, this is how Louis Vuitton reached stratospheric heights.

1837

A 16-year-old Louis Vuitton arrives in Paris to become an apprentice to trunk maker Monsieur Maréchal. A valued trade in a time of horse-drawn carriages and early-era train travel, Vuitton quickly became a master of his trade, learning to design and craft custom boxes and trunks and becoming a key part of the Monsieur Maréchal team for the next 17 years.

1854

Now an expert in his field, Vuitton opens his first workshop at 4 Rue Neuve-des-Capucines near the Place Vendome
Louis Vuitton 1888
The Louis Vuitton team in 1888

1858

Louis Vuitton introduces his new flat-top Trianon canvas trunk. Lightweight and airtight, unlike its round-top contemporaries, the Trianon trunks could be stacked for long voyages and soon found many imitators.

1859

Early success sees Vuitton expand with a new site in Asnières, a suburb a few miles outside of Paris, for its 20 employees. Providing both a home for his family and a new headquarters for the business, the site remains a symbol of the brand’s heritage and success to this day, with 170 craftsmen currently working on site to create special orders for important clients.

1886

With safety a primary concern for Vuitton’s wealthy clients, the invention of an unpickable lock by Louis’ son Georges presents an important USP for the business. To prove its effectiveness the brand challenged Harry Houdini to escape from one of its trunks. While Houdini did not accept the offer, the effectiveness of the lock remains undisputed and it is still used today.

1892

House founder Louis Vuitton passes away and the company’s management passes to his son Georges.

1896

As part of Georges’ campaign to turn Louis Vuitton into a worldwide brand, 1896 saw the creation (and patenting) of one of the brand’s longest lasting signatures: the LV monogram canvas. Ironically introduced to prevent counterfeiting of the brand’s designs, it has gone on to become one of the most famous - and widely copied - designs in the world.

1914

The Louis Vuitton building opens on the Champs-Élysées becoming the world’s largest travel goods store. It is immediately patronised by Paris’ fashion elite, including Coco Chanel.
Louis Vuitton vintage advert

1930

The Keepall and Speedy bags make their debut becoming instant and enduring hits. Marking the brand’s expansion from travel into bags for personal use, they are followed in 1932 by the Noé (a bag originally design to carry champagne vintners). All three remain some of the brand’s most popular styles to this day.

1936

Georges Vuitton dies and is succeeded by his son Gaston-Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton trunks
The signature LV monogram canvas. Credit: Joyce Royan

1940-45

A somewhat forgotten part of the brand’s history, Louis Vuitton openly supported and collaborated with the Nazis during the German occupation of France at the behest of members of the Vuitton family. The episode remains largely undiscussed until the 2004 publication of Stephanie Bonvicini’s book Louis Vuitton, A French Saga.

1970

Gaston-Louis passes away and the reins are handed to his son-in-law Henry Racamier. The brand’s push for international expansion continues and, in 1984, on the recommendation of financial director Joseph Lafont, Louis Vuitton becomes a publicly traded company.

1987

Louis Vuitton merges with Moet et Chandon and Hennessy to form LVMH - a move which cements the international reputation and influence of the three luxury brands. It has since grown to become one of the dominant forces in luxury retail, controlling 75 brands under 60 subsidiaries in industries spanning fashion, jewellery, wines and spirits, travel and more.

1996

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of its iconic monogram, Louis Vuitton commissions six designers to create original pieces in its honour. The resulting pieces - a vinyl box by Helmut Lang, a backpack with built-in umbrella by Sybilla, a hiking bag by Romeo Gigli, a shoe trunk by Manolo Blahnik, a weekend bag by Isaac Mizrahi and ‘bustle bag’ by Vivienne Westwood - were exhibited around the world, drawing huge crowds of fashion fans.

1997

American designer Marc Jacobs is appointed as artistic director and immediately sets about creating the brand’s first ready-to-wear fashion line for men and women, which was presented in March 1998.

2001

Marc Jacobs enlists artist Stephen Sprouse to create a line of limited edition bags customised with Sprouse’s signature graffiti, with select pieces available only to Vuitton’s VIP clients. This year also saw Jacobs create the band’s first piece of jewellery - a charm bracelet - and begin a campaign to enlist some of the world’s biggest stars, including Angelina Jolie, Sean Connery, Scarlett Johnson and Jennifer Lopez, as ambassadors.

2002

Building on the success of its Sprouse collaboration, Takashi Murakami is called on to create a new line of Monogram Multicolore bags and accessories. The range reimagines the classic LV monogram in 33 different colours on black and white backgrounds and draws a new, younger clientele into the Louis Vuitton world.

2007

The latest in Louis Vuitton’s long line of It bags - the Neverfull - is introduced. So named for its ability to carry up to 200lbs, this simple tote has endured as one of the brand’s signature designs.

2011

Kim Jones is appointed as lead designer of the brand’s men’s ready-to-wear, reporting in to Marc Jacobs.
louis vuitton alicia vikander
Louis Vuitton AW15 ad campaign
louis vuitton ad campaign
Louis Vuitton AW10 ad campaign

2013

Nicholas Ghesquière is hired to replace Marc Jacobs as artistic director of women’s collections, showing his first collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2014. Joining from the more experimental Balenciaga, Ghesquière sets about modernising and pushing the boundaries of the established Louis Vuitton aesthetic. Darren Spaziani is also appointed to lead the expansion of the brand’s accessory collections.

2018

Virgil Abloh is confirmed as artistic director of menswear, replacing Kim Jones and becoming the label’s first African-American artistic director. Enlisted to instil some of the streetwear spirit of his own brand, Off-White, his first collection is shown at the Palais-Royal during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.

2019

Louis Vuitton is named by Forbes as the world’s most valuable luxury brand, worth $39.3 billion. It is estimated to turn profits north of 30%.

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