Biographies in brief: Azzedine Alaïa

The Tunisian designer was one of the most talented and beloved figures of 20th Century fashion - here’s his story.

Early Years

Alaïa was born in July 1939 in Tunis, the capital city of Tunisia, and displayed a talent for the arts from childhood. In 1955 he began studying sculpture at the École des Beaux-Arts in Tunis, having lied about his age to be accepted, before moving to Paris in 1957 to hone his fashion skills under the mentorship of Christian Dior, Guy Laroche and Thierry Mugler.

It was, however, a tough time to be an immigrant in France. Alaïa lasted just five days at Dior (then helmed by Yves Saint Laurent) before issues were found with his papers. Thankfully for the fashion world, a pair of aristocratic women were convinced to set this aside and took him in as an au pair and dressmaker, introducing him to the society women who would become his first clients.

​Founding his brand

In the late Seventies Alaïa began creating bespoke gowns for the Parisian fashion elite from his Paris apartment on Rue de Bellechasse. Early clients included Great Garbo, Louise de Vilmorin, the dancers at the Crazy Horse cabaret and Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, and word of his talent quickly spread. In 1980 Alaïa debuted his first ready-to-wear collection, which was picked up by Bergdorf Goodman after a chance encounter during which the eponymous retailer saw a woman on the street wearing an Alaïa coat.

​International fame, and no small amount of coverage in prestigious fashion magazines, in particular Elle and French Elle, followed and, in 1984, Alaïa was voted Designer of the Year and Best Collection of the Year by the French Ministry of Culture. It was around this time that Alaïa began to hone the signature body-con styles that would go on to inform his house codes. A constant innovator, many of Alaïa’s most famous designs were the results of his research at factories, experiments with new fabrics and dedication to the arts of pattern cutting and hand sewing. Waists were cinched and bust accentuated in an outrageous celebration of the female form that proved immensely popular.

By 1988 Alaïa had moved to a larger premise in Paris and opened boutiques in Beverly Hills and New York, soon after being dubbed the ‘King of Cling’ by the fashion press. He had also gathered around him a coterie of statuesque women who adored the designer – even as they towered over him. Grace Jones, Tina Turner, Linda Evangelista and Madonna all turned to Alaïa for red carpet gowns and tour costumes. Naomi Campbell, to whom Alaïa offered a place to sleep as a 16-year-old newly arrived in Paris, treated him as a father figure throughout his life.

A young Alaïa in Tunis

Alaïa retreats

When his twin sister Hafida died, Alaïa began to shy away from the spotlight, switching his focus from ready-to-wear to the bespoke clientele that made his early name. Working from a space in the Marais that was boutique, atelier, showroom, storage for his extensive archive and functional bistro (he loved to cook) in one, Alaïa took on projects for some of the biggest names in fashion, including supermodel Stephanie Seymour, for whom he created a wedding dress in 1995 which reportedly took 1,600 hour to finish.

The same year the Alaïa label became a household name after Alicia Silverstone wore a classic scarlet Alaïa mini-dress as Cher Horowitz in Clueless. At the time Alaïa was well-known among fashion circles but hadn’t yet achieved mass popularity. The house’s name-check in Clueless cemented its place in pop-culture and introduced the designer to a new, younger generation of consumers who would become a key part of the brand’s customer base.

A look from the SS21 collection

Despite this, Alaïa remained fame shy, preferring to perfect his designs away from the eyes of the media. He was also much loved by his peers for his nurturing nature and the support he gave the young designers that passed through his old-style Parisian atelier. It is, perhaps, this more than any of his most famous designs that remains his legacy.

​New investment

Amid waning sales, in 2000 Alaïa signed a partnership with the Prada group which instantly reinvigorated the brand’s covetability. Perhaps through a combination of force of will on Alaïa’s part and recognition of talent on Prada’s side, Alaïa retained a strong level of control over his brand, remaining true to the signature styles on which he had built the brand. In 2007, Alaïa bought back the ready-to-wear portion of his business, a decision possibly sparked by the pressure to adhere to the biannual show schedule. Alaïa was well-known for showing collections only when he was ready and, in 2007, hadn’t staged a show for three years. Prada was left owning only footwear and, later that year, Richemont purchased a percentage of the business.

​According to Alaïa, in 2008, he was offered the Legion d’Honneur, France’s highest decoration, but refused the award. He later told Business of Fashion, “People said that I refused because I don't like Sarkozy, but that's ridiculous. I refused because I don't like decorations - except on women. My dress on a woman - that's a beautiful decoration.”

​A return to the catwalk

In 2011 Alaïa staged his first catwalk show in seven years and was duly awarded with a standing ovation and front row which featured Donatella Versace and Sofia Coppola. The brand enjoyed continue success throughout the later years of Alaïa's life. In July 2017, Alaïa would stage his last show (again, after a hiatus of five years) and, on 18 November, 2017, Alaïa passed away aged 82 after suffering a heart attack. Following his death, the Alaïa brand was continued by his team before Pieter Mulier, formerly global creative director at Calvin Klein, was appointed as creative director in February 2021.

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