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26/11/2022

house history: the gucci timeline

Like many of its Italian counterparts, Gucci began life as a quietly luxurious equestrian and leather goods brand - but has grown to become one of the most exciting and experimental houses on the modern fashion scene. In fact, such is the strength of the brand’s fame and aesthetic, that everything from its red-and-green motif, ‘GG’ logo and diamond print fabric are instantly recognised across the globe as Gucci hallmarks. Here’s how it got there…

1921

After spending years cutting his teeth at heritage Italian luggage brands, Guccio Gucci opens his eponymous leather goods store on Via Vigna Nuova in Florence. His early business consists largely of fine saddles and equestrian accessories – leading to motifs which remain constants in Gucci collections to this day.

1935

Sanctions against Italy lead to a shortage of leather. In an effort to find alternatives Gucci develops a woven hemp from Naples emblazoned with the brand’s first print - a series of interconnecting dark brown diamonds on a tan background.
Gucci workshop Florence
The Gucci workshop in Florence

1938

Guccio’s three sons, Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo, join the brand, helping to expand it to Rome with a store on Via Condotti.

1947

A lack of materials after World War II leads to the introduction of pigskin and the creation of the famous Bamboo bag. Featuring treated Japanese bamboo handles, the patented design became immediately synonymous with the house.

1951

Gucci’s first Milanese store opens on Via Montenapoleone and the green-red-green web is introduced as the company’s hallmark.

1953

Shortly after the opening of the brand’s first New York boutique Guccio Gucci passes away aged 72. Despite this, the house’s expansion into the US is a huge success and Gucci flourishes internationally, gaining many high profile fans including Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy. The same year the iconic Gucci horse bit loafer is introduced.

1955

The GG house crest becomes a registered trademark and is introduced as a staple across the house’s growing range of accessories and clothing.

1961

Jackie Kennedy is spotted carrying a slouchy Gucci handbag that is immediately renamed the ‘Jackie’, gaining household name status for the brand.

1966

The Flora scarf is created for Princess Grace of Monaco.

1975

The first Gucci fragrance, Gucci No. 1 by Guy Robert, launches.

1981

Gucci debuts its first ready-to-wear collection at the Sala Bianca, making heavy use of the Flora print, and it is a great success. However, the brand is plagued by family infighting, poor management and accusations of tax evasion which see both the brand’s reputation and profits take a hit.
ilaria occhini Gucci bamboo bag
Ilaria Occhini with the Gucci Bamboo bag in 1956. Image courtesy of Gucci

1982

Rodolfo Gucci assumes leadership of the company and it acquires official SpA designation. However, just one year later Rodolfo dies, passing the mantle to his son Maurizio.

1985

The Gucci loafer becomes part of the Metropolitan Museum of the Art’s permanent collection.

1989

Dawn Mello, formerly the president of Bergdorf Goodman, is appointed creative director and tasked with reviving Gucci’s flagging fortunes. With her come Richard Lambertson (design director) and Neil Barrett (men’s ready-to-wear designer). A 50% stake in the company is acquired by holding company Investcorp.
Gucci 70s ad campaign
A 1970s ad campaign featuring the Flora print
Gucci 1991 advert
A Gucci ad campaign from 1991

1990

Tom Ford is appointed women’s ready-to-wear designer.

1993

Maurizio Gucci sells his shares to Investcorp and ends the family’s involvement with the brand.

1994

Dawn Mello departs Gucci to return to Bergdorf Goodman. Tom Ford replaces her as creative director, infusing the collections with an overt sex appeal and glamour not seen at any other contemporary high fashion houses and, in turn, transforming the brand's fortunes.

1995

Domenico De Sole becomes CEO of the Gucci Group and begins reversing a decade of overexposure by bringing a series of franchises, licenses and sub-brands in house.

2001

Pinault Printemps Redoute fights off LVMH to acquire a controlling share in Gucci.

2004

De Sole and Tom Ford depart after failing to agree terms with PPR. Ford is replaced by Alessandra Facchinetti. Robert Polet, formerly of Unilever, becomes CEO of Gucci Group while Mark Lee, CEO of Yves Saint Laurent, becomes brand chief.

2005

After two forgettable seasons Facchinetti leaves and Frida Giannini, director of handbags and accessories at Gucci since 2002, is promoted to the top job.

2006

Gucci signs a long-term licensing agreement with P&G for the production and distribution of fragrances. As of 2020, Gucci now counts more than 60 scents in its portfolio.

2007

The brand’s first television ad campaign, directed by David Lynch to promote the Gucci by Gucci fragrance, airs.

2009

Patrizio di Marco joins from Bottega Veneta, succeeding Mark Lee as Gucci president and CEO.

2010

Gucci Playground, an iPad app dedicated to childrenswear, launches.

2011

Gucci celebrates its 90th birthday with the 1921 collection - a range of the house’s most famous bags in new fabrics and colourways, as well as accessories, watches and jewellery.

2015

Giannini is ousted due to waning sales and Alessandro Michele, who had been working at Gucci for over a decade, is promoted as her replacement. He made an instant splash by scrapping Giannini’s final menswear collection and redesign it in its entirety five days before the AW15 show. A month later his first womenswear collection debuts, solidifying Michele’s Gucci as a quirky, maximalist and forward-thinking brand.

2017

Michele’s new direction for the brand is proved successful when the Gucci reports huge growth in sales, driving an 11% increase in sale for parent company Kering. Ot remains one of the conglomerates star performers to this day.

2020

Amid the coronavirus pandemic shutting down traditional fashion weeks, Gucci announces it will be leaving the classic fashion calendar behind - for good. The brand also announces it will be going from five to two shows per year, with Alessandro Michele commenting the current system felt ‘stale’. A few weeks later the house presented its latest collection in a 12-hour live stream called Epilogue, taking viewers behind-the-scenes on a co-ed lookbook shoot.
Alessandro Michele
Alessandro Michele accepts the International Designer of the Year award at the 2015 British Fashion Awards. Credit: Walterlan Papetti

2021

House of Gucci, a blockbuster film detailing the dramatic lives of the Gucci family is made starring Lady Gaga, Adam Driver and Jared Leto. Written and filmed without the consent or input of the Gucci family, they immediately disown it and reject its depiction of them as fictionalised and overly scandalous.

2022

Amid slowing sales, Alessandro Michele and Kering announce that the designer will be leaving his post as creative director. A successor is yet to be named.

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